Mile 802 to mile 819
This morning I woke up with the foot end of my tent collapsed. I
lifted up the fabric to find my trekking pole that was supposed to be
holding up that end of my tent. Oddly it was a good four feet away from
my tent. I know I was camped on a slope, but I don't think I kicked the
pole away in the night. I changed and packed what I could in my sad
little tent and got up. It took my a minute to see that most of the
handle of my trekking pole had been chewed off-including the strap. The
others came to look and speculate on what ate my trekking pole. It was
a very sad day for my trekking pole. It felt gross all day-it was
awhile before I took off my mitten because I didn't want to touch it. I
think in Mammoth I'll wrap what's left of the handle in fabric tape-no
more mixing up my left and right pole.
It didn't seem like my morning-I wasn't feeling it. I was hungry so
soon after breakfast as I followed the trail up to Pinchot Pass. Even
after snacking I still felt low on energy. While climbing I was
actually thinking I can't wait to get out of the Sierra's. I'm having a
hard time enjoying them while feeling so run down and out of breath. I
was thinking the altitude was only getting to me in the low 10,000's,
but I think even the mid 9,000's is too high for me. I went to bed
tired and woke still tired and I'm guessing altitude is playing a part.
And then I was on top of Pinchot Pass with the sun warm on my face, a
snack in hand, and a view for miles and I forgot about how tired I've
been. To describe the view will make it sound just like the other
passes, and they do have a lot in common. I remember hearing people
take about the sameness of the desert, but the Sierra's have a sameness
to me. Granted they have a magnificent beauty to them that was lacking
in the desert.
The trail went gently down from the pass with hardly any snow to
navigate and no need for snow aides. I think there was more talk about
this being the Golden Year-an idea that feels like a jinx to me. We
also talked about how we haven't seen any other PCT thru-hikers in over a
day. We may be the only ones left-it's hard to tell right now.
It feels like the stream crossings are getting bigger. The two big
ones are coming up in a day or so, and so far I don't feel like I've
gotten any ford practice. Besides dipping my feet in the water at lunch
I haven't gotten my feet wet on any Sierra stream crossing yet. Our
lunch spot by the river was nice. It was hard to imagine such a
wonderful spot a few short weeks ago when we were in the desert.
During lunch we realized we were setting ourselves up for a hard day
tomorrow. We are going to hit one of the harder passes at the end of
the day tomorrow and that's when the snow, and there will most likely be
snow, will be at its softest and hardest to walk through. There wasn't
much we could do about the timing.
Shortly after lunch the trail started the long climb up to Mather's
Pass. We stopped for a snack break, and Portrait checked his GPS and
told us we still had two miles to the top, but the pass seemed like it
was right there. Of course the GPS was right: the trail swung away
around some lakes than switchbacked slowly up the ridge line. I wish I
was hiking this section without the extra gear (and lack of oxygen) and
then it would feel so easy. And I'd like just once to be the first one
to the top, but that's not going to happen, and I'm mostly okay with
that.
Snack was had on the top and we talked about the next few days and
what mileage would be best. It's hard because its all speculations and
maybes. But we did shorten the mileage for today and we could see our
camping area from the pass.
There was very little snow on the north side-I think we cut a few
switchbacks and walked through a couple patches of snow. The guide
calls the descent a knee jarring one, but I didn't find it that bad. It
helped that the day was nearing its end. Opus remembered some camping
from his JMT hike last summer. At first it felt like he might have
remembered wrong when we got to the treed area. I imagine it's not easy
having three people rely on you memories, but his turned out to be spot
on.
We are camped among some trees with a creek within hearing distance, a
lake down in the valley below, and granite monsters surrounding us.
It's about as peaceful a place as I could hope for. We arrived early,
around 5:30, had dinner in the sun (my dinner was totally first rate:
gnocchi with spinach, bacon bits, olive oil, and pesto sauce), then went
to our separate areas to journal and sleep. I'm cowboy camped with my
belongings close by in case anything wants to use my stuff as a chew toy
again. It should be a lovely night followed by a downhill (!) and more
views.
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